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With Moet taste on a VB budget we arrived in beautiful Byron Bay expecting the worst. At the information desk for backpackers on Byron's main drag, we were informed of a few interesting looking places (and I use the word interesting loosely) to shack up in for the night. The most unlikely place of contracting flees, dreadlocks or food poisoning looked like a hostel called the Art Factory. Driving down the winding dirt road with the windows down and the October sun shining, the beat of aboriginal music fused with jazz and maybe hip hop (I couldn't be sure) and the smells of curry and popcorn came wafting into the car. My girlfriend raised her eyebrow as we pulled into the Art Factory. An explosion of colour welcomed us; people, sounds, smells – it was a feast for the senses. A big Buddha statue watched us ominously from across the car park as we unpacked our bags, pillows, doonas, make-up, handbags, bug spray, sarongs and the rest. He looked somewhat amused. Maybe it was because the Swedes at the check-in counter had travelled halfway across the world with bags smaller than my make-up case, and I only intended staying for a night.
At the check-in, we were advised that the cheapest accommodation option (sharing a tepee with 12 other backpackers) was booked out. Phew. The Art Factory is normally completely booked out, we were told, but because we were lucky there was one twin share available in the islander tents. However it wasn't really a tent, and there was no island in sight – unless the wooden walkway over a little dribble of brown muck classified as one. We named our shelter ‘the missile'. Literally a long and narrow dome with balcony bookends, it was a pretty sweet deal for $37.50 each a night. Two single beds were pushed against the right hand wall, head to toe. From our back balcony, a view of a little lake and the camping ground. ‘The missile' even came equipped with its own bush turkey which we named Eduardo Long Legs. The best thing about backpacking with a friend is that all costs can be shared and if backpacking really isn't your scene, you won't feel too overwhelmed.
The sun soon set and we were keen for some drinks, a feed and a boogie in town. Our first obstacle was getting ready. Loaded up with our make-up cases, clean fluffy towels and a few different outfits we made our way to the communal bathrooms past some fire twirlers and the swimming pool. My first reaction was a sigh of relief, as the bathrooms were actually clean and I had expected to leave with at least tinea. Applying our fake tan and make up, and attempting to straighten our hair was another story. Giving up on looking pretty we headed out to our Buddha friend for some drinks at the Buddha bar. Happy hour (from 4-6) was finishing up but we managed to sneak in with $4 vodkas. Sitting watching the free live band and eating our free popcorn, we spoke to some backpackers who advised us to check out ‘cheeky monkey's' just opposite the Byron cinemas for cheap food and dinner.
The walk into town took about ten minutes. With free entry before 10pm, a $5 main meal of Moroccan chicken and $7 jugs of beer (happy hour from 7pm to 9pm), we weren't complaining. Although we didn't win any of the prizes, which were skydiving vouchers and $5 jugs of beer. The Beach Hotel was our next destination; it was a bit disappointing with the house wine costing $5.50 even though it went down like razorblades. So we moved on to LaLa Land. Caramel ottomans freckled the floor and chandeliers glimmered above the bar to make for a venue a bit more upmarket than the other Byron nightspots.
Our early check-out at 10am came as a bit of a shock as we had to peel ourselves off our single beds with hangovers uglier than the look of the previous night's make-up smudged all over our faces. With the sun unusually warm for October the beach was looking like a pretty good option to begin the day. Clarkes beach, the main beach, was filled with a lot semi-naked people and very few attractive ones. Back at the car, a baby blue rust bucket with surfboards stacked on the roof crawled past slow enough for us to notice an abundance of very fine male flesh tightly packed in the back seat. After following the boys around a few bends down a narrow road they unknowingly directed us to Tallows beach; pure white sand, perfect waves, and a ridiculous amount very tanned, very good looking people. After assessing the situation and deciding that we fitted in perfectly, uh-hum, we settled for a blissful hour of sun baking.
Our next mission was shopping. Every girl loves to shop and I kid you not, shopping in Byron beats anything on the Gold Coast hands down. The best Australian designers, such as Sass and Bide and White Suede can be found in ‘Pompido'. Beautiful hippy dresses and Indian inspired saris and candles can be found at the ‘Tree of Life'. ‘Shu Bar', possibly the best shoe store this side of Sydney is a must-visit. The $19 Byron Bay fisherman pants also get a mention; everyone that comes to Byron has to leave with some of these! Of course, there are crappy souvenir stores here and there, but they're easy to bypass and they're nothing compared to the ones littering Surfers Paradise.
Next stop was the lighthouse. It's a bit of a hike but it's worth it if the weather is clear, especially if you're from overseas – after all, it's the most easterly point in Australia. Spotting whales was the highlight of the little adventure, and the work out on my calf muscles. Plus, you can see the hang-gliding take-off. I vow that when I have enough money, I will come back to Byron and go all-out. There are so many outrageous things to do; pretty much everything on your list of "things to do before you die". Hang-gliding, sky-diving, scuba diving, kayaking, and surf lessons. Hell, maybe I'll even get a tattoo next time I stop by. This place makes you want to do crazy things.
Even after spending very little money, I left Byron with a very big frown on my face. It wasn't, of course, because I had a bad time. I simply just didn't want to leave. The atmosphere here is something different to anywhere else; people are genuine and fresh (and I strictly refer to their outlook of life as I'm quite sure that many people I met hadn't showered for a week). They live with a relaxed "no dramas" mentality. It's a grimy hippy town crossed with Melbourne's Fitzroy or St Kilda. But it's this rustic charm that captures people's hearts. The fact that I stuck out like a sore thumb in this place fazed no-one. Nobody judged me even though I judged everything I saw. Whether you stay in a luxury villa, a tepee or a ‘missile', Byron Bay truly nurtures the soul.
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